Call for Papers, Annals of Leisure Research, Special Issue: THE DRESS ISSUE
Guest Editor: Prof Alison L Goodrum, Department of Apparel, Manchester Metropolitan University, England
According to Entwistle (2000: 6) “all people dress the body in some way, be it through clothing, tattooing, cosmetics or other forms of body painting. To put it another way, no culture leaves the body unadorned but adds to, embellishes, enhances or decorates the body”. In this scholarly definition, even Nudists and Naturists, although eschewing material items of clothing, are dressed, be this in the form of, say, a splash of perfume, a slick of moisturiser, a necklace or a goatee beard. This Special Issue takes this expansive definition of dress and explores its application to, and significance within, Leisure Studies.
The links between dress and leisure are multiple, longstanding, and range across time and space. In the 1920s, for example, French couturière, Coco Chanel, gave utilitarian jersey fabric a high fashion ‘spin’, endorsing its easy-to-wear qualities as a motif for modern living. And, today, stretchiness and comfort remain as important material properties in both active- and leisurewear. While certain leisure pursuits call for ‘dressing down’ and the wearing of decidedly non-specialist dress, other leisure activities demand modes of dress that are strictly policed and/or technically sophisticated. On a cultural note, sports-based communities such as ‘Bikers’, ‘Skaters’ and ‘Surfies’ identify themselves tribally through esoteric sartorial markers (favouring a particular brand of clothing, for example).
The current resurgence of handcrafting, knitting and home dressmaking as a cross-generational, fashionable, and often gender-distinctive, pastime, presents yet a further link between leisure and dress: one that relates to making-as-hobby. The vernacular in dress is pertinent, too, to sporting spectatorship. For example, fans may use make-shift props, face-paints and fancy dress costuming to display support for individual players or teams. More generally, sports fans comprise an eager and profitable cohort of consumers keen to purchase goods relating to their interests such as replica kits and commemorative garments and merchandise.
Shopping for fashionable dress and accessories is itself, for some, an all-consuming pastime or passion. The practice of shopping has altered radically over the past decade with internet and TV shopping offering alternative routes to market and, with them, shifts in the consumer experience. Other alternative sites and spaces for the consumption of dress include the car boot sale, thrift store, flea market and swap shop. These informal, often festive or festival-like spaces, move the consumption of dress from formalised retail industry into the realm of entertainment.
The Special Issue seeks, then, to capture, and to map, the diversity and dynamism of the many links between dress and leisure. The discipline of Leisure Studies has engaged with these links but has tended to do so in a haphazard way, touching on dress as an adjunct to, or spin-off from, larger projects. The proposed Issue will marshal together original research papers on dress and leisure, an underexplored, and perhaps under-considered, area in Leisure Studies. The outcome will be a publication that repositions dress as a central, and significant, subject in, and for, leisure, whilst simultaneously promoting leisure as a rich topic, too, for scholars from such disciplines as fashion theory and dress history. We welcome paper submissions that address any of the following (and related) topics on dress and aspects of leisure (as well as relevant others):
- Style tribes and leisure/sporting subcultures and fandom
- Performance-, active-wear and technical design in/for leisure and sport
- Histories of leisure and dress
- Spaces and sites of/for leisure and the performance of dress
- Buying, shopping and consumption of dress as leisure, pleasure and/or anxiety
- Leisure, sport and the dressed and/or undressed body
- Collecting dress, shoes, accessories and bodily adornment/s
- Craft, making and the (domestic) production of dress as a leisure pursuit
- Leisure, dress and non-conformity/subversion
Important Dates for Authors:
Submission of Abstracts: Please send proposed paper title and an abstract of no more than 250 words to the guest editor, Alison Goodrum (email@example.com) no later than 21st July 2014. We will advise the outcome no later than 4th August 2014.
Submission of Full Paper: 2nd March 2015 (further details to be advised upon confirmation of abstract acceptance).
Publication: First issue of 2016 (approximately January)